Tuscany: Livorno, Pisa, Lucca

If you’re going to take kids to Italy, Tuscany is the place for you! Out in the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside, castles dot the tops of villages and the wine and food is do die for. Halfway between Florence and Pisa lie many small towns and villages which host “Agriturismos” (slightly like our version of a Bed & Breakfast… but waaaaay nicer and more Italian!) Check out Italy’s national Agriturismo site to find these beautiful farm stays through the nation. These farms and villas are hosted by authentic Italian families, many in villas that are hundreds of years old, and often serve communal “Italian-style” breakfast and dinner! Kids will enjoy the pools that many of these villas and farms have, along with the animals, (sometimes) swings, and parents will revel in the local wine, food, and custom.

Stay.

The pictures I have provided will do this particular Agriturismo will not do it justice. Agriturismo Vitalba was any family’s epitome of what an Italian vacation should be. (I often tell people that our trip to Italy didn’t start for us until we found this spot in Tuscany!) Located in Montopoli in Val D’Arno, a tiny village halfway between Florence and Pisa/Lucca, this farmhouse was the perfect place for our four-year-old to run, play, explore, eat, and be happy! No crowded museums, no lines, no scooters and cars that almost miss running her over… Just picturesque countryside on acres of farmland. Vitalba had a large swimming pool, trampoline, swing set, toys galore (it is a small pre-school during the winter season), cats, dogs, donkeys (Dante and Beatrice to be exact!), vineyards, ducks, geese…. everything a young one could ask for! There is one major villa in which the host couple lives (in the above quarters), and there is an apt. on the first floor for families. The smaller villa contains 3 separate apartments, all first floor, along with the hosts’ office. We adored our apartment! Simply decorated, it contained a small kitchen, TV, dining area, bathroom, and 1 bedroom. The host family brought us a cot, so that our daughter didn’t have to squeeze with us in our bed.

Eat.

All of our delicious breakfasts were included with the stay at Agriturismo Vitabla. Lunches we would either get out at the sites or bring back to the villa to prepare. Dinners we had out in the small towns and villages nearby, and I believe nothing can compare to REAL TUSCAN food! Our favorite restaurant by far was L’Eremita Ristorante of Montopoli in Val D’Arno. Situated in an old wine cellar, hundreds of years old, the small-village restaurant is nothing short of Tuscan perfection, with its fine local wines, homemade pastas, breads, locally produced olive oils, and cozy atmosphere. They welcomed our daughter, and gave her both high chair and crayons to play with. I would return to this restaurant in a heartbeat!

Play.

Being halfway between Florence and Pisa as we were in Montopoli in Val D’Arno, there is plenty of time to see the touristy sites nearby: Pisa (30 minutes), the cute medieval town of Lucca (40 minutes, just north of Pisa), the beaches of Livorno (west and south of Pisa). Pisa was short and sweet. Mind you that if your child is short like ours, they will not be allowed to climb the Tower of Pisa.. so you can either do a babysit/climb switch-a-roo, or just take a few pictures and move on, like we did.

Livorno was awesome. There’s a small aquarium near town: Acquario di Livorno. Tiny…but fun! And a breath of fresh air from art-laden places like Florence and Rome. We headed to the beaches just south of Livorno after that. Despite spending an hour trying to find parking on a busy Sunday, we had an amazing time. The beaches are rocky (but pebble-sized).. the Mediterranean waters calm and cool. My daughter had a blast swimming all day in the cool waters. I personally had fun digging in the rocky sandy for pieces of old, Italian pottery, once discarded by factories along the coast. Most beaches here are “clubs” and you will have to pay a small fee to get in for the day.. Most of these clubs are open to the public and are kept clean, pristine, and have food counters or restaurants attached.

Lucca is a small, medieval city just north of Livorno and Pisa. Take a day to visit, as you must park outside the city and walk in. Picturesque churches, shops, and cafes line the old streets, and performers are found in the quiet squares. Not many places to play for a kid, but around the city is the old wall, along with a massive, green park-area that surrounds the city. We found it lovely to buy some sandwiches, gelato, and picnic on the green upon the city wall!

No Cinque Terre? People have asked why we skipped out on Cinque Terre with our 4-year-old. Steep cliffs, tons of hiking, and 90-degree days: not meant for that age or time. If we came again at an older age and in the crisp Autumn, we probably would tackle the 5-village cliff hike.